On January 18, 2025—just after the anniversary of the Illustrious Blitz—Sarah and I participated in Heritage Malta’s guided tour, Under Attack: Reliving the Illustrious Blitz, an immersive experience in Senglea that brought to life one of the most devastating air raids of World War II. As members of both Heritage Malta and Wirt Artna, we are committed to exploring Malta’s rich military history, especially in light of our research into Operation Hercules and the planned Axis invasion of the island. This tour provided yet another fascinating glimpse into Malta’s resilience during the war.
The Illustrious Blitz
The tour centered around the events of January 16, 1941, when the aircraft carrier HMS Illustrious—crippled by Axis bombers—sought shelter in the Grand Harbour. The Luftwaffe and Regia Aeronautica, determined to finish the job, unleashed a relentless bombardment. Senglea, its bastions, and nearby areas bore the brunt of this attack, leading to widespread destruction.
Our guide, an expert in Malta’s wartime history, led us through key locations in Senglea, pointing out scars from the bombing that still remain. The tour blended historical accounts, survivor testimonies, and archival photos, painting a vivid picture of the chaos and courage that defined the Illustrious Blitz. It was particularly striking to hear how civilians endured the constant attacks—many sheltering in hastily dug tunnels or makeshift bomb shelters while the island’s anti-aircraft defenses struggled to fend off wave after wave of enemy aircraft.
Pizza at Il-Pirata Before More History
After the tour, we stopped for lunch at Il-Pirata, one of our favorite spots to eat when in the area. This family-run pizzeria in Birgu serves up some of the best pizza on the island, with a great mix of local and Italian influences. Sitting outside, enjoying a classic Maltese Ftira-style pizza, and looking out over the historic surroundings made for a perfect break before we continued our deep dive into wartime Malta.
The Malta at War Museum in Birgu
Following lunch, we took a short walk over to Birgu, where we visited the Malta at War Museum—one of the best wartime museums on the island. This museum, housed in a former British military outpost, contains an extensive collection of wartime photographs, documents, and artifacts, including displays on the various military units, fortifications, and the Malta Home Guard. Given our ongoing research into the what-if scenario of Operation Hercules, we were particularly interested in the museum’s detailed insights into Malta’s defensive strategies during the war.
Exploring the Underground Air Raid Shelters
One of the most memorable parts of the visit was touring the underground air raid shelters—an experience that truly brought the reality of Malta’s wartime struggles into focus. Sarah and I descended into the labyrinthine tunnels, carved out of the limestone beneath the museum. These shelters provided refuge for countless Maltese civilians during the near-constant air raids of 1940–42. Standing in the dimly lit, claustrophobic spaces where families huddled together while bombs rained down above was a sobering experience. The museum has preserved these shelters remarkably well, allowing visitors to see firsthand how people lived underground for weeks or even months at a time.
Adding to Our Library
While at the museum, we picked up two insightful books to further our research:
- UXB Malta: Royal Engineers Bomb Disposal 1940-44: This book holds personal significance as Sarah’s great-grandfather, Pacifico Falzon, was an engineer who tragically lost his life due to Luftwaffe bombing. On March 21, 1942—during what is often called “Malta’s Day in Hell”—he was among those killed when Axis forces dropped over 300,000 kg of bombs on the island in a single day. You can read more about the devastation of that day here. This book offers valuable insights into the perilous work of bomb disposal teams, who risked their lives daily to keep Malta’s civilians and infrastructure safe from unexploded ordnance.
- Marching On: Captain Frederick Oloff Samut & The Union of Maltese Fascists: This publication is particularly useful for our Operation Hercules research, as it delves into the activities of fascist sympathizers in Malta, offering insights into potential fifth column elements on the island. Understanding these political undercurrents helps paint a clearer picture of what an Axis invasion might have looked like had Operation Hercules gone ahead.
Reflections on Malta’s Wartime Legacy
Between the Heritage Malta tour in Senglea and our visit to the Malta at War Museum, we gained a deeper appreciation for just how pivotal Malta was in the Mediterranean theatre of World War II. The island’s ability to withstand relentless Axis assaults—often on the brink of collapse—remains one of the great stories of resilience in military history.
For those interested in WWII history, military wargaming, or Malta’s defensive preparations, these sites are absolutely worth a visit. As we continue our research into Operation Hercules and the alternate history of an Axis invasion, exploring Malta’s real wartime defenses provides invaluable context—both for wargaming scenarios and for understanding the sheer scale of the conflict that played out over the island.
This day was a powerful reminder that while war games, models, and historical research help bring history to life on the tabletop, there’s nothing quite like standing in the places where history actually happened.